Description
The 1998 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau", from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is from an exceptional vintage in the Southern Rhône. This year produced wines of great power, concentration, and aging potential, and La Crau is one of the standout wines of the region.
Vintage Overview
1998 Rhône Vintage: Considered one of the best vintages of the 1990s, with an ideal growing season. Warm and dry conditions allowed for perfect ripeness, resulting in wines with rich fruit, structured tannins, and excellent balance. In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 1998 wines are known for their longevity and complexity, making them some of the most collectible examples from the region.
Tasting Profile of 1998 Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau"
Appearance: Deep garnet with some bricking at the rim, showing graceful evolution.
Aromas: A highly complex bouquet of ripe black fruits (blackberry, plum, cassis), dried red fruits (cherry, cranberry), and signature Southern Rhône notes of garrigue (thyme, rosemary, lavender). With age, secondary aromas of leather, tobacco, and truffle are prominent, along with earthy undertones and hints of spice like black pepper and clove.
Palate: Full-bodied and robust with velvety tannins and vibrant acidity. Flavors of dried red and black fruits, licorice, olive tapenade, and savory herbs dominate. As the wine has matured, tertiary notes such as leather, dried mushrooms, and a mineral streak from the galets roulés (large stones) have emerged. The finish is long, complex, and perfectly balanced.
Aging Potential: By 2025, this wine is likely at or just past its peak, offering an extraordinary drinking experience for those who enjoy the layered complexity of mature Châteauneuf-du-Pape. While it can be enjoyed now, further aging is unlikely to improve it significantly.
Food Pairing Suggestions
Meat Pairings: Herb-crusted lamb, roasted pork shoulder with fennel, or beef short ribs in a red wine reduction.
Vegetarian Pairings: Ratatouille, roasted root vegetables, or a mushroom and lentil cassoulet.
Cheese Pairing: Aged cheeses like Comté, Beaufort, or Epoisses.
Decanting: Decant for about an hour before serving to allow the wine to breathe and reveal its full complexity. Handle the wine carefully to avoid disturbing any sediment.
The 1998 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" is a quintessential example of why Châteauneuf-du-Pape is so beloved. Rich, layered, and elegant, it offers a deep connection to the terroir of La Crau and showcases the incredible aging potential of this vintage. Enjoy it alongside a thoughtfully prepared meal or as the centerpiece of a special occasion.