Posted 3 June 2021
by Dia Grigoriou
Although 2019
was a good vintage in the Douro, not all shippers declared a classic vintage. Those
whose vineyards are situated in favourable aspect sites opted for a classic declaration
whilst others focused their potential releases on ports from terroir driven plots.
With no general vintage declaration, several major producers have announced
single quinta vintage releases instead.
2019 Vintage Report
2019 begun with a dry Winter that continued into
Spring. Even in late winter, early buds made their appearance on the vines,
indicating an unusually warm weather that prompted an early start of the
growing cycle.
Spring also saw warmer than usual temperatures. Little
rain was seen during the early growing season with mild temperatures and no weather
extremes that allowed the flowering to take place, in favourable weather, undisturbed.
Low rainfall and dry Spring also meant disease pressure was low allowing for
less intervention in the vineyard and subsequently a healthier grape
composition.
The onset of Summer saw a continuation of the dry
weather. Luckily, cooler temperature throughout the summer- in sharp contrast
to the one experienced by the rest of Europe- prevented the vines from shutting
down. These cooler conditions lasted through to August where a much-needed rain
pushed the maturation forward and benefited the quality and health of the
grapes.
Harvesting begun in Autumn, in September where a
brief sprinkle of rain also fell at just the right time to prevent drought and
keep the grapes fresh and juicy. Warm temperatures in daytime followed by
cooler nights, assisted in the slow accumulation of sugars and phenolic
ripeness whilst retaining high acidity levels, thus contributing to healthy and
balanced grapes.
Grape production was a little higher compared to the 2017 and 2018
vintages, and, perhaps, this was the indicative factor 2019 was not going
to be a classic vintage as a small production is synonymous with a classic
vintage port declaration.
Due to the mild conditions, grape health was guaranteed
across all varietals. Touriga Nacional was exemplary, and the fruit was deep
and complex offering good structure. Touriga Franca benefited from the late
autumnal rain which offered some hydration and assisted in the retention of its
plentiful aromatic intensity. In general, the resulting wines are likely to be extraordinarily
successful with freshness and liveliness being the hallmarks of the 2019 ports.
Harvesting crates with beautiful healthy 2019 grape bunches at Sogevinus vineyards.
2019 Classic Vintage Port Declarations
·
Quinta
Do Noval Classic Vintage, 2019: The
decision is in line with the Noval’s strategy to declare a ‘classic’ vintage
Port from every harvest, but the quantities produced vary each year. Of the
Quinta do Noval 2019, the group said the wine was drawn from 13 different
vineyard parcels across its 145-hectare estate. The group has made 2,780 cases,
representing around 14% of total production.
Christian Seely, managing director of Quinta do
Noval, said: “We had perfect conditions in 2019 to take our time and choose the
right moment for each parcel, enabling us to pick and to vinify with great
precision. The purity, complexity and character of the resulting wines reflect
these ideal conditions.”
·
Quinta Do
Noval “Nacional”, 2019: Quinta do
Noval also declared the 2019 vintage of its highly prized Nacional Port. Produced
from a small parcel of ungrafted vines at the heart of the Noval vineyard, only
200 to 250 cases of Nacional are generally made in any declared vintage. The grapes
going into a Nacional are planted in a tiny 1.6ha parcel and harvested on one
day, that being 9 October in 2019. The grapes are then foot trodden together in
one small lagar, so you can imagine the care and precision that goes into every
Noval Nacional bottle. “It was not a difficult decision to declare the Quinta
do Noval Nacional 2019 following the first tastings of the wine” said Managing
Director Christian Seely and went on to describe the 2019 Nacional as
“powerful, structured and long…at the same time fine, fresh and elegant” and
continued to say, “extraordinarily complex and profound, we believe this to be
a great Nacional.”
·
Niepoort
Classic Vintage, 2019: Niepoort
declared 2019 as a classic vintage (the previous classic declaration being 2017)
and announced this on Dirk Niepoort’ s birthday, in a tasting beamed live from the Niepoort Lodge in Vila Nova
de Gaia. Dirk, Daniel Niepoort (now Head Winemaker) and Nick Delaforce (Head Port
maker) presented the new wine to us via a Zoom Tasting. Comparing the past two
classic Niepoort declarations Dirk said “2017 is the closest to perfection in
many ways, but 2019 has more personality. It is richer and riper” and he
continued to say, “the pandemic gave us time to reflect and produce more
focused blends”. Head Port Maker Nick
Delaforce also commented “the elegance and finesse of Niepoort style is all
there” and stated that the 2019 vintage will be bottled in June or July 2021.
We here at Vintage Wine and Port tasted the
2019 Niepoort via an exclusive Zoom tasting with the winemaker and unanimously
agree this is a beautifully harmonious and balanced Niepoort. It is fresh and
aromatic with aromas of blossom, currants, raspberry jam, black cherry compote,
hints of spice and an underlying mineral note rendering complexity. It shows
great intensity of fruit and the alcohol is superbly integrated. This is very
elegant now, with all the structural components to take this port forward to
its evolution in the next few decades.
·
Quevedo
Classic Vintage, 2019: Up and
coming Oscar and Claudia Quevedo are declaring 2019 as a classic vintage and continue
to produce outstanding, fully declared vintage ports four years in a row! Oscar announced the declaration during an exclusive interview on Vintage
Wine and Port’s YouTube channel where he confirmed that, although the 2019 was
an extremely dry summer, the vines at Quevedo vineyards performed really well with
the grapes adapting to the climatic conditions. Are a result their 2019 vintage
port is fresh and balanced with refreshing acidity. There are 5.000lt produced divided
into various bottle formats, from half 37.5cl to Magnum 1,5lt bottles and the ports
have a fruit driven taste profile.
·
Calem &
Barros Classic Vintages, 2019:Another back-to-back declaration for these
worldly famous brands from Sogevinus Group. Calem produced 3,992 750ml bottles
and 24 Magnums of this vintage whilst Barros produced 4,112 750ml bottles and
54 Magnums. In 2019, “the diversity in soil types, grape varieties, sunlight
exposure and altitudes enabled a gradual maturation of the grapes, an important
factor for achieving high quality grapes”, explains Márcio Nóbrega, Head of
Viticulture at Sogevinus Fine Wines. “The long period of ripening in 2019, the
attention to detail in each plot and close monitoring of the grapes’
maturation, were all key factors for achieving very aromatic wines with
freshness, assertive tannins and a great depth of colour, thus producing Ports
with great ageing potential.
2019 Single Quinta Port Releases
Single
Quinta or Single Vineyard vintage ports are gaining ground in recent years.
These ports are the epitome of terroir and are offered at unbeatable prices.
They are designed to last 15-20 years and, in some cases, even more. In a
“Drinks Business” article Paul Symington said: “I would argue that a
great Quinta Port at £25 to £30 is one the wine world’s greatest purchases and
indeed bargains”.
·
Quinta do
Vesuvio & Dow’s Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira vintage ports, 2019: Although the Symington have bottled six
Quinta Vintage Ports from 2019, they will release
two en primeur – Quinta do Vesúvio and Dow’s Quinta da Senhora
da Ribeira. The release will be accompanied by two limited
edition cases from both estates, each containing the 2019, 2009 & 1999
Vintage Ports. Winemaker, Charles Symington commented, “when reviewing the
top wines from 2019, we felt that the best expression of our grape varieties
came from our six principal quintas. In 2019, the various plots of vineyards
within each of these estates delivered small volumes of wine with fantastic
depth and complexity. We believe these wines could not have been enhanced by
blending across each of our port houses’ top quintas to produce a ‘classic’
Vintage Port. Instead, we decided to blend the best performing components
within each of our estates and bottle six Quinta Vintage Ports. These exciting
and lively young wines represent the absolute pinnacle of the 2019 harvest.
They are stunning today, and I believe they will age beautifully over many
decades.”
The other Quinta Vintage Ports produced by the Symingtons in
2019 – Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos, Dow’s Quinta
do Bomfim, Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha and Cockburn’s
Quinta dos Canais – will age in the Symington cellars in Vila Nova de
Gaia for future release.
·
Burmester
Quinta do Arnozelo & Kopke Quinta de S. Luiz Vintage Port 2019: Apart from classic vintages for Calem and
Barros, Sogevinus will also release Burmester and Kopke as single vineyard
vintage ports. With a long and elegant finish, in the style of Casa Burmester, the
2019 is the purest expression of the excellence of the Quinta do Arnozelo
terroir. Head winemaker for Fortified wines Carlos Alves describes the 2019
Burmester as “A very elegant, floral and fresh wine” while for Kopke’s Quinta
de S. Luiz he commented: “a firm, fresh and intense Vintage that shows great
balance”.
A mix of declarations for Sogevinus, two single Quinta (Kopke
& Burmester) to the left and two fully
declared ports (Barros & Calem) to the right.
·
Taylor's Quinta de Vargellas & Terra Feita, 2019/ Fonseca Guimaraens
2019/ Croft Quinta da Roeda, 2019: For this vintage, the Fladgate
Company, owner of Taylor’s, Fonseca and Croft have decided to only produce
Single Quinta Ports. These will not however get released as En Primeur but kept
in the company’s cellars for 8-10 years and will be released on the market when
the ports have developed a certain maturity. Managing Direction Adrian Bridge
comments on Taylor’s two single Quinta main differences and why they are
offering these as a late release “Quinta de Vargellas 2019 Port shows the
elegance and composure which we associate with this great estate, whereas
Quinta de Terra Feita 2019 Port expresses a sumptuous opulence and earthiness,
hallmark of this historic property. Taylor’s has always offered single quinta
vintage Port as a mature Port as we are currently selling the Quinta de
Vargellas 2013. By putting these aside, we are looking to satisfy demand for
such Ports in 2029/2030.” Head Winemaker David Guimaraens commented on the
Croft: “Roêda is an outstanding property, which includes some old vineyards of
great historic interest. These contribute to the wonderful richness of the
Roêda vintage Ports, which really stand out for their aromatic complexity.”