Description
A narrow magenta ring around a core of inky purple black. The nose opens with a burst of dark, woodland fruit, dense and succulent, blended with fresher, more vibrant red berry aromas. A slatey minerality holds this exuberant fruitiness in check. At this stage, the nose is still reserved and discreetly aromatic, revealing leafy, balsamic scents and cedary notes of sawn wood. The first impression on the palate, as on the nose, is of tightly packed, dense dark berry fruit, which then explodes on the mid-palate and surges into the long finish. The texture is round and velvety but the taut, sinewy tannins and a strand of crisp acidity provide firmness and structure. The layered, complex fruit typical of Fonseca holds sway over this weighty, powerful wine.
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Reviews
***17.5/20- Jancis Robinson***
Quinta do Panascal was the first Fonseca property to start picking on 6 September. The two Pinhão Valley estates, Cruzeiro and Santo António, followed on 10 and 17 September –the earliest picking dates in a generation. Touriga Nacional , Touriga Francesa, Tinto Cão, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca. TA 4.1 g/l, pH 3.9, RS 98 g/l. 8,100 bottles.
Deepest purple. Wild, perfectly ripe small black berries like elderberry but also the lush sweetness of ripe blackberries plus a stony, rocky edge and just a touch charry. Lush, plush and exotic on the palate, deep-pile, compact, smooth tannins, just enough freshness to balance the rich generosity. The finish is beautifully dry-tasting, the tannins melting on the long finish. (JH)20% Drink 2027-2057 jancisrobinson.com
95/100 Vinous.com
Picking began at Quinta do Panascalon September 6, the two other quintasin Pinhãothat form the 2017 Fonseca Vintage Port, Cruzeiroand Santo Antóniopicked on 10 and 17 September respectively. One of the deepest, most opaque coloramongst the new Port alumni, it has one of the most backward, almost recalcitrant noses that demands a lot of aeration. It gradually opens to reveal blackberry, melted tar, thyme, clove and violet aromas that are well defined, if maybe just missing the same breeding as Taylor’s. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. This is fresh and detailed, a slightly more structured Fonseca than expected, quite strict at first with good grip and a lightly spiced, precise finish. Powerful and long on the aftertaste, you can feel this Fonseca 60 seconds after the wine has exited. It deserves 10-15 years in bottle. Excellent, but patience required. The most enigmatic of the 2017 Vintage Ports. Total production is 8,100 cases.--Neal Martin Drinking window: 2033 -2080 Neil Martin Vinous.com
18/20 Richard Mayson
The last back-to-back Fonseca vintage was 1933/1934: open and in its first bloom of youth with lovely aromatic red berry fruit and floral aromas, a touch leafy too: soft and fleshy initially, seemingly not as big as Taylor’s (and not quite so deep in colour), firm, ripe linear tannins rising in the mouth, well defined with berry fruit remerging on the finish. Lovely freshness. Already beautifully integrated, showing great purity and poise. RichardMayson.com
